Maverick’s dawn patrol, Sept 2011

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It must have been my lucky day. I paddled to the south side…by the channel.  This is where the biggest sets come in.  They swing wide and no one is in position for these.   As soon as I got there, a bomb swung wide…right to me.  I stroked for it and the wave went vertical.  I made the drop, faded and was eventually blown up by the foam ball.  I pulled my board back and it was still in one piece!  I paddled back to the line up, where Alex Martins told me that I had caught the wave of the day!  I’ve had two great sessions where I’ve gone unscathed.  I feel that rent will be due very soon.
Here’s a shot from the GoPro.  Mr. Nibbles made his appearance in the line-up.  I thought this would be a good time to call it a day.