It must have been my lucky day. I paddled to the south side…by the channel. This is where the biggest sets come in. They swing wide and no one is in position for these. As soon as I got there, a bomb swung wide…right to me. I stroked for it and the wave went vertical. I made the drop, faded and was eventually blown up by the foam ball. I pulled my board back and it was still in one piece! I paddled back to the line up, where Alex Martins told me that I had caught the wave of the day! I’ve had two great sessions where I’ve gone unscathed. I feel that rent will be due very soon.
Here’s a shot from the GoPro. Mr. Nibbles made his appearance in the line-up. I thought this would be a good time to call it a day.
