Mavericks dawn patrol surfing opening day september 2011
Since my last session at Maverick's, two guys have drowned, Orange County's Jacob Trette and Hawaiian underground charger, Sion Milosky. I am scared to death of that wave...I keep asking myself why I put myself through this insanity. I had been tracking a swell from the Aleutian Islands all week...and was getting mixed buoy readings. The West Papa buoy was showing 17 feet and the Oregon buoy was flat. I went up anyway. Paddling out, I wasn't feeling very confident. It's always that way for me on the first day back in big conditions, as Southern California surf is where I do most of my training. How is one supposed to charge when all there is...is waist high shore break? Anyway, there were two guys sitting at the main bowl.…
