Blog

Here's a group pic from today's paddleboard lesson in Marina del Rey.  I haven't had much time to blog...been busy with helicopters, outrigger canoes and lessons.  What a fun group!

Andrew came all the way from Ontario, Canada to ride a wave!  This was his first one.  I love this job!

Well kids...I made it to the big-time.  Here's a very well made short-film of a day out in the surf.  Click the link below... I'm at 3:38. http://www.surfline.com/video/webisodes/maverick-moments_68023

This was an interesting one.  My models were showing a 9ft. swell with 16 second intervals...no big deal, so I thought. A few of us went up to the cliff that overlooks Ross's to check it out. The wind was howling from the northwest, the water was all hacked up.   After 20 minutes or so,  Alex Martins made the call to paddle out. It was a big media day, as there were lots of photograpers shooting the opening ceremony for the Maverick's contest.   The  Chasing Maverick's production crew was out there as well, getting some final shots for the movie.  There must have been three boats and five skis in the water…maybe more. I was sitting south of the main bowl, just minding my own business, like I always do…waiting for the bombs to swing…

Best weekend surfing at Mavs!  The swell was much smaller than projected.  I paddled out with Haley Fiske and caught a good one.

Just got back from a little surf trip in Half Moon Bay, CA with Evan Lloyd. The main bowl at Mavs wasn't working, so we surfed Mushroom Rock.  I'm working on the footage and will have a video up soon on my videos page.

The main bowl at Mavs wasn't working, so we surfed Mushroom Rock.  I'm working on the footage and will have a video up soon on my videos page.

I tore my ACL rolling with a dude in jiu jitsu class.  Today was my surgery.  I just got home.  I'm sitting down with my ice machine, Peddlar machine, hot tea and settling into an episode of Bridezillas.  I don't think I'll be down for too long.  Think it's time to take one of those Vicodins.

It must have been my lucky day. I paddled to the south side...by the channel.  This is where the biggest sets come in.  They swing wide and no one is in position for these.   As soon as I got there, a bomb swung wide...right to me.  I stroked for it and the wave went vertical.  I made the drop, faded and was eventually blown up by the foam ball.  I pulled my board back and it was still in one piece!  I paddled back to the line up, where Alex Martins told me that I had caught the wave of the day!  I've had two great sessions where I've gone unscathed.  I feel that rent will be due very soon. Here's a shot from the GoPro.  Mr. Nibbles made…

Since my last session at Maverick's, two guys have drowned, Orange County's Jacob Trette and Hawaiian underground charger, Sion Milosky.  I am scared to death of that wave...I keep asking myself why I put myself through this insanity. I had been tracking a swell from the Aleutian Islands all week...and was getting mixed buoy readings.  The West Papa buoy was showing 17 feet and the Oregon buoy was flat.  I went up anyway. Paddling out, I wasn't feeling very confident.  It's always that way for me on the first day back in big conditions, as Southern California surf is where I do most of my training.  How is one supposed to charge when all there is...is waist high shore break? Anyway, there were two guys sitting at the main bowl.…