It must have been my lucky day. I paddled to the south side...by the channel.  This is where the biggest sets come in.  They swing wide and no one is in position for these.   As soon as I got there, a bomb swung wide...right to me.  I stroked for it and the wave went vertical.  I made the drop, faded and was eventually blown up by the foam ball.  I pulled my board back and it was still in one piece!  I paddled back to the line up, where Alex Martins told me that I had caught the wave of the day!  I've had two great sessions where I've gone unscathed.  I feel that rent will be due very soon. Here's a shot from the GoPro.  Mr. Nibbles made…

Since my last session at Maverick's, two guys have drowned, Orange County's Jacob Trette and Hawaiian underground charger, Sion Milosky.  I am scared to death of that wave...I keep asking myself why I put myself through this insanity. I had been tracking a swell from the Aleutian Islands all week...and was getting mixed buoy readings.  The West Papa buoy was showing 17 feet and the Oregon buoy was flat.  I went up anyway. Paddling out, I wasn't feeling very confident.  It's always that way for me on the first day back in big conditions, as Southern California surf is where I do most of my training.  How is one supposed to charge when all there is...is waist high shore break? Anyway, there were two guys sitting at the main bowl.…

Hi folks, it's been very busy around here with SUP lessons, surfing, paddling outriggers and flying helicopters.  I'll try to get back to blogging on a regular basis...I've just been slammed. We had a nice south swell a few weeks back.

Chuck Patterson, an extreme waterman, is someone I admire.  I’ve competed against Chuck in numerous surf competitions, and I must say, he is one fierce competitor.  He is a member of the all-star “Team California,” an outrigger squad comprised of some of the best paddlers on the West Coast.  Their mission is to dominate the outrigger circuit around the world. I ran into Chuck after today’s 9-man outrigger race, a grueling 25-mile canoe race in Dana Point.  I said “hello.”  He wasn’t very friendly. I guess this makes sense because today, “Team California” got their asses kicked by my team, “Marina del Rey”!

Hey Blog...been in Texas for a while doing some helicoper work.  I'm back now and have been busy with the same old stuff: canoe races, surf lessons and flying.  I had a lesson today with two young men from Arkansas, Will and Peter.

Today's lesson was good but the pictures didn't turn out very well.  I'm holding out for the iPhone 5.

Hi Blog.  It's been a good week of paddling, surfing and jiu jitsu.  I need some rest!  Just got a call from a buddy who turned me on to a six-week crop dusting gig,  just south of Houston, Texas.  I'm going...and I'm taking two boards with me.  It's time to see what that oil tanker surfing deal is all about.  I'll try to post some video. Here's a photo from the Ventura race, last week.

Didn't do much today.  Went to the periodontist for a little skin grafting.  It was lots of fun.  When I agreed to this procedure, I thought it would be like another cleaning.  The doctor took this miniature cheese slicer and took a hunk of skin from the roof of my mouth and sewed it to my gumline. The drugs are wearing off...should be an interesting evening. The canoe practice, last night, was the toughest I've ever had.   Did I mention that this is great SUP training? Here's a picture of our boat heading out to sea. Wade

Outrigger canoe race today in Santa Barbara.  We took second place to Lana Kila - Danny Ching's   team.  They beat us by thirty seconds.  It was grueling!  Camped out at El Cap - slept in the Prius.  I'm tired.

These are some of my instructors and workout partners at the Robot Brazilian Jiu Jitsu Academy, in Santa Monica.  Pictured from left to right:  Craig Keefer, me, The Mike Martinez and Ejay. It was 1-3 ft. today at Sunset Beach.  It's a fun little point break and great for beginners.  There's a small south swell coming in...should start filling in by Wednesday. Craig caught his first real wave today and is stoked.